Alpha-arbutin: what does it do for pigment spots and an even skin tone?

You look in the mirror and suddenly see them. Small brown spots on your cheeks. A darker patch above your lip. A complexion that looks a bit more uneven than it used to. Sound familiar? You're certainly not alone.

When you then go looking for a serum, you come across all kinds of difficult words. One you see more and more often is alpha-arbutin. What is that? Does it work? And is it safe? I'll explain it the way I would to a friend.

What is alpha-arbutin?

Alpha-arbutin is a skincare ingredient related to arbutin, a substance that occurs naturally in plants such as bearberry. It is used in serums and creams to make the skin look more even and to reduce the appearance of pigment spots.

The alpha form is made with the help of enzymes. That may sound technical, but it simply means it is a pure, stable form that fits well in a serum.

How does alpha-arbutin work on pigment?

Your skin makes pigment (melanin) with the help of an enzyme called tyrosinase. Alpha-arbutin inhibits that enzyme. As a result, less new pigment is produced in those spots and, over time, your complexion can look calmer and more even.

This is well described in a review article on arbutin and its effect on melanin (Boo, Antioxidants 2021).

Important to know: existing pigment doesn't disappear in a week. Your skin renews itself slowly. Patience really is your best friend here. And be wary of brands that promise you a result within a few days.

Is alpha-arbutin safe?

That's a good question. Arbutin is related to hydroquinone, a substance that is not allowed in ordinary cosmetics in the EU. That is why the European Commission, following advice from its scientific committee on consumer safety, has set the maximum amount of alpha-arbutin allowed in a product. For face products that is 2%.

A product sold in the EU has to comply with that. So if you buy from a reliable brand, you're fine. Are you pregnant or do you have a skin condition? Then check with your GP or dermatologist before starting a new active serum.

Why alpha-arbutin goes so well with vitamin C

Alpha-arbutin does its best work not alone. In the MKBM Vitamin C Serum 12% it is combined with vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and niacinamide. Three ingredients that each, in their own way, contribute to a more radiant, more even-looking complexion.

Vitamin C gives glow and helps your skin look fresher. I wrote a whole blog about niacinamide. And alpha-arbutin focuses on those uneven spots. Together they complement each other.

It also contains centella asiatica and boswellia serrata. To be honest: it also contains tea tree oil (melaleuca), with naturally occurring limonene. Do you have sensitive skin or react to fragrance compounds? Then test it on a small patch of skin first. I think that's important to say.

Want to know when to best use the serum? Read using vitamin C serum: morning or evening.

Without sunscreen, it makes little sense

This may well be the most important part of this blog. The sun is the biggest driver of pigment spots. You can use the best serum in the world, but if you then put your skin in the sun unprotected, your skin simply makes new pigment again.

So every morning: serum, possibly a cream or oil, and then always a sunscreen with SPF. Even when it's cloudy. Even in winter. It may feel excessive. It isn't.

You can read more about where those spots come from in my blog about pigment spots on your face. And do you mainly want a calmer complexion? Then this blog about an even skin tone will help you a lot.

When do you see your GP?

Does a spot change shape or color, grow, itch or bleed? Then always see your GP. A serum is skincare, not a treatment. If in doubt, have it checked. Always.

Do you know it's just ordinary sun or age spots? Then you're allowed to want to do something about it. That's not vain. That's looking after yourself. My mother taught me from a young age to look carefully at what I put on my skin, and I'm happy to pass that on to you. Want to know more about me and my story? Then read my story, from Killerbody to tailor-made coaching.

So alpha-arbutin? A smart ingredient for a more even-looking complexion, at its best together with vitamin C, niacinamide and your SPF every day.

So I'm going to help you. View the MKBM Vitamin C Serum 12% with alpha-arbutin or combine it in the Glow & Awake Duo. You'll find all serums in the skincare collection.

Frequently asked questions about alpha-arbutin

What is the difference between arbutin and alpha-arbutin?

Arbutin (beta-arbutin) occurs naturally in plants such as bearberry. Alpha-arbutin is a related form made with enzymes and often used in serums.

Can you combine alpha-arbutin with vitamin C?

Yes. Alpha-arbutin, vitamin C and niacinamide are often used together, as in the MKBM Vitamin C Serum 12%.

Do I need sunscreen with alpha-arbutin?

Yes. Without daily SPF, your skin keeps making new pigment. Sunscreen is the foundation for a more even-looking complexion.

How long does it take before you see anything?

That differs per skin. Your skin renews itself slowly, so always give a serum a few months and use it daily.